Archive for the ‘countries’ Category

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A Persian excursion

July 31, 2009

persianstuffOne of the best reasons for having a proper food writer as a friend is joining them for the spontaneous suburban sojourn in search of a particular dish or ingredient. The Empress took me the other day to Auburn in the mid-west of Sydney, where all things Persian, Afghan, Turkish & Lebanese can be found (and where the Gallipoli Mosque is a feature).

As DrDi wrote recently, it’s very cool for we postcode-centric Sydneysiders to take a trip along the discovery highway to an unvisited suburb – and the Empress is the gal to do it with. Our trip was a short sharp operation but chock full of discoveries for me. First stop was a great restaurant for lunch, where among the delights was an an eggplant dip to die for called Kashk-e bademjan; I devoured the lot and got an extra tub for takeaway.

After that we popped into a Persian supermarket where we filled our shopping bags with these goodies: green raisins, dried sour cherries, barberries and slivered pistachios. The shop guys and we managed to cross the language barrier with the aid of some friendly other customers, which was a very nice part of the encounter.

I haven’t used any of these staples of Persian cooking yet, and have never seen those ruby-red barberries or the chewy black and very tart sour cherries before, but plan to have a go very soon at a polow – a Persian pilaf, basically, which apparently has a lovely crusty bottom.

I’ve checked out some polow recipes with barberries here and with sour cherries here and here and here.

But I’m also thinking that both of these would be delicious chucked into any tagine or, as I found after taking this photograph, just eaten as a little dried-fruit mix from a bowl.

Years ago when making the divine mast-o khiar – a yoghurt & cucumber dip with walnuts, green raisins & rose petals (and another recipe here)  I had the devil’s own job finding green raisins, and now I know they’re everywhere in any Middle-Eastern suburb I feel a bit of a dill for buying them from these elegant and expensive packagers (although their stuff is top quality, so if you can’t get near a Persian supermarket, they are worth a shot online).

And as for my plans for the pistachios, well obviously the list is endless. But apart from Karen Martini’s quite incredible baked lemon and goat’s curd cheesecake with pistachios (from Where the Heart Is, but Stonesoup has an adaptation here – scroll down to find it), I have just come across this delicious-sounding pistachio dukkah which sounds a very fine idea.

Now, off to Culburra for the weekend with a bunch of food-crazy friends. Will return fatter and more recipe-laden than ever next week…

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Red curry paste

March 1, 2009
Pounded by Sean

Last week I took my nephew Henry to a Thai seafood cooking school at the Sydney Seafood School. The course was great, but the best thing was the red fish curry – the first time I have ever made a good Thai curry. One of the secrets, I discovered, was only using dried red chillies, not fresh, and also cooking the shrimp paste (on a bit of foil in the oven or under the grill) before adding it to the paste.

The other tip was to use very little oil in the paste, as using too much results in the oil slick we’ve all seen on top of curries. The food processor ran for about 15 minutes to get it right.

I tried it at home and Sean pounded it in the mortar & pestle, but it still needed a good 10 minutes in the whizzer after that.

NB: Here, in response to a comment, is the recipe. I’m not sure about the etiquette of stealing somebody else’s recipe, but all credit goes to the Sydney Seafood School Thai course people. Go along, learn something.

Red curry paste

Makes approx 1 cup

  • 24 long dried red chillies
  • 10 white peppercorns
  • 2 stalks lemongrass, lower third only, cleaned and sliced
  • 2 tablespoons chopped, peeled galangal
  • 1 tablespoon chopped coriander root
  • 1 teaspoon shrimp paste, toasted*
  • ½ cup red shallots, peeled & chopped
  • ½ cup chopped garlic
  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil / rice bran oil if required (we only used 1 tablespoon i think)

1. Remove and discard seeds & membrane from chillies (use scissors to cut them open, then scrape – this bit very time consuming!)

2. Soak in warm water for 15-30 minutes. Drain, squeeze to remove liquid (use gloves for this bit) and chop chillies.

3. Add remaining ingredients and process for several minutes (use pulse button) until a fine paste with a rich red colour emerges.

4. If it doesn’t blend smoothly, add a little oil.

*Wrap shrimp paste in an aluminium foil packet and place under a high grill until aromatic – 3-5 minutes.

To make a curry,  spoon 1 cup of the thick, stiff cream from the top of a can of coconut milk  and heat till just boiling. Then add ²/³ cup of this paste to the cream and fry until the oil separates from paste and it’s quite fragrant. Add the other stuff in your curry (fish sauce, lime juice / tamarind water, sugar, etc etc) and boil until reduced by half – then add the protein and any other bits and bobs. Yum.

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