Archive for the ‘restaurants’ Category
August 21, 2009
This week’s column from the Empress in Good Living is a beauty, and extra fun for us to read because we were crash test dummies for one of these Chinese muslim restaurants with her – the Western Orient in Hurstville. It’s loads of fun going on these excursions (as we’ve discussed before, it’s so easy to get geographically locked into your own tiny suburban area of this city), and I can vouch for the divinity of everything Steph mentions in her Western Orient review.
The waitress, Candy, and her mum, the hidden chef, were incredulous that a bunch of gweilos would enjoy their fare. But once we convinced Candy that we actually really would like the noodles that she insisted were ‘better for Chinese people, not Australians’, she became our new best friend and recommended all sorts of goodies.
After the meal the Empress went to do her ‘candid camera moment’, where she tells the restaurateurs she wants to feature a dish of theirs, and which is always nice to witness as they get very excited. And this time, once that bit was done and we’d paid the bill and were about to leave, Candy returned to the table with a giant tureen of “Egg FlowerSoup”, compliments of her mum. As we were all completely stuffed, we groaned inwardly at the idea we had to eat yet more food, although obviously couldn’t insult the hostess by refusing. But at the first spoonful, an expression of utter ecstasy came over every face at that table, and then it was a fight to the death for the rest of the soup. The clearest, most delicate chicken broth with an egg-whitey streak, it was simply unfrickingbelievable.
And the rest of the meal, as detailed in the Empress’s column, was excellent too. She also visited two other fab-sounding Chinese Muslim joints too – so go along and check one out.
Posted in countries, restaurants | Tagged Chinese Muslim, Good Living, Stephanie Clifford-Smith, Uighur food | 1 Comment »
August 12, 2009
This week the Empress’s Good Living column discusses the only dessert apart from chocolate that I am officially in love with – cheesecake:
Think cheesecake and most of us have an image of the high American baked versions, rich with cream cheese, eggs and sugar. Sometimes known as Lindy’s cheesecake, after a now-defunct New York restaurant, it rests on a buttery base of crushed biscuits, flavoured with citrus rind and often topped with fruit compote. Even though there are more cheesecake recipes from the US than anywhere else, other cultures have their own versions using other cream cheeses.
To follow her investigations of the best three cheesecakes in Sydders, check out her column here.
Posted in dessert, restaurants | 11 Comments »
July 22, 2009
I have always loved a good lasagne myself – but a really good one is hard to find, no? Not for the Empress though – she winkles out three excellent versions of lasagne in this big wide city in her SMH Good Living Three-of-a-Kind column for this week, online now. Says she:
Lasagne is believed to be the earliest form of pasta, which makes sense given the flat sheets result from simple rolling. But it isn’t always layered with bolognaise and bechamel sauce; there’s a more elaborate version, known as vincisgrassi, which can contain sweetbreads or other offal, spices, porcini mushrooms, prosciutto or a combination.
Posted in pasta, restaurants, winter food | Tagged Good Livin, Good Living, lasagne, SMH, Stephanie Clifford-Smith, Three of a Kind | 3 Comments »
July 16, 2009
The online bods at SMH like to keep things lively in terms of the Empress’s weekly column (now it’s there, now it isn’t. Happily this week Steph is there in full living colour with a spot on Chinese hotpots. She writes:
Huddling over a huge communal bowl of steaming broth, poaching meats, vegetables and noodles may qualify as the perfect way for a group of friends to spend a winter’s evening. Some believe the poaching technique originated in Mongolia, while others argue it’s unlikely, given the people’s nomadic ways and the need for specialised pots and equipment. Szechuan residents are also strong contenders for the inventors’ crown.
So pop along to Good Living and check it out. Incidentally, I’m excited today for a couple of reasons. First, I just ate the best lazy person’s lunch I’ve had in ages – a can (greedy!) of chickpeas mixed with the Empress’s famous tomato oil pickle and a dollop of yoghurt – oh my, it was good.
Second, we get to go goodfood hunting with her tonight – Uighur Chinese in Hurstville. Uighur food is amazing – kind of Turkish Muslim influence, I believe, yet Chinese. You may have only heard the word Uighur because of the recent horrific violence in China between Uighurs (Muslim folks) and Han Chinese. But don’t let that obscure the fact of peaceful relations here in Oz, with Uighur restaurants happily dotted through Chinatown and elsewhere. MMMmmm.
*Postscript: Speaking of the above, Sydney PEN (of which I’m a proud member) has put out a statement today condemning the astounding attempt by the Melbourne Chinese consulate to censor the Melbourne International Film Festival by demanding it remove a film about a Uighur activist from its program. Foolish of course (the film has now got huge publicity as the story is covered all over the mainstream media from here to Britain), but also creepy. Check out Sydney PEN’s statement here.
Posted in restaurants | Leave a Comment »
June 25, 2009
After an annoying absence in their online content last week, happily the SMH has posted the Empress’s 3-of-a-kind column again this week.
This week she’s got her beer goggles on. Specifically, to examine food cooked with beer, from shanks to pork hock to beef & Guiness pie (mmm).
Pop along and have a look here.
Posted in restaurants | Tagged Good Living, SMH, Stephanie Clifford-Smith | Leave a Comment »
June 3, 2009
The Empress Clifford-Smith turns her attention to small and salty fish in her column this week – and oh my, how good does that little sardine number from the Burlington look?
You will find Steph’s Good Living column here.
Posted in restaurants, seafood | Tagged Good Living, sardines, SMH, Stephanie Clifford-Smith | 1 Comment »
May 21, 2009
The Empress explores her passion for pig once again, in this week’s 3-of-a-kind restaurant column in Good Living. Pork hock and knuckle – French, Asian & Polish. Mmmm.
Posted in meat, restaurants | Tagged Good Living, SMH, Stephanie Clifford-Smith | 7 Comments »
May 16, 2009
Steph’s 3-of-a-kind restaurant column for Good Living in the Sydney Morning Herald is finally up online – go visit to get the clicks happening and make sure it stays that way.
After the sheer joy of our Lao trip to the west where we encountered the sticky rice heaven of Song Fang Khong, I look forward to our next suburban adventure with the Empress, which I believe is going to be a Filipino fiasco of some kind … can’t wait.
Also, my thanks to her for pointing out yet another excellent-looking whole orange cake recipe here. And it’s a non-boiler, for you extra-idle types…
Posted in restaurants | Tagged Good Living, SMH, Stephanie Clifford-Smith | Leave a Comment »
March 24, 2009
It’s a source of continual frustration to me that the Sydney Morning Herald’s Good Living online section does not include the regular ‘Three of a kind’ column by Stephanie Clifford-Smith, she of the chick pea majesty …
Anyway – if you are a Sydneysider, get today’s paper and check out the Empress’s three Miang kham recommendations, page 8 of Good Living. The pics alone will have you desperate for one of these delectable little wrapped-up morsels of spicy Thai goodness… not to mention the Empress’s always concise, witty and knowledgeable summations. Knows her miang kham from her tom yum, that one.
Posted in restaurants, writing | Tagged Empress, Stephanie | 3 Comments »
March 19, 2009
Have you noticed how, if you cook a meal for folks who like eating but aren’t as obsessed with cooking as One is, that they often rave about the incredible flavours you produce? I realised early in my cooking career that this has sadly little to do with how amazing the fish/snags/bombe alaska really is, and more to do with the fact that the said dish is seasoned. i.e., contains salt (and my second love, pepper).
I am frankly astonished at the number of people who don’t cook with salt at home but always find restaurant food and food at cooky friends’ houses delicious. It’s SALT, people. Delicious, crunchy, subtle or serious – it’s salt that underlines every bit of good cooking I’ve ever done.
I’ve been discussing with my chick pea empress friend Steph (the best all-round cook I know) the whole salt-scare issue. We are both firmly of the view that unless you have high blood pressure – when it really does matter that you cut down on salt – then one should go for one’s life on the salty goodness. Read the rest of this entry ?
Posted in fads & fashions, food snobbery, health, restaurants | Tagged blood pressure, salt, snooty chefs | 7 Comments »
