Fish out of water
January 27, 2012
Our (almost) vegetarian adventure
Some of you already know about the culinary experiment I am forcing on Senor for February – the two of us are going veg for a month.
Last year it was Febfast, giving up the booze, which was a chore, to say the least. I expect to enjoy this February a whole lot more than last, for I have no doubt we will be eating very well indeed.
We’re trying out a version of vegetarianism for a few reasons, apart from my increasingly obvious lapsed-Catholic attachment to some annual ritual festival of denial – any other ex-Catholics out there with these weird lenten leanings?
First, I just want to see what it feels like to go without meat for a month, because I realised some time ago that I have never forgone meat (either red meat, or chicken, pork, bacon, chorizo, fish, seafood etc) for even one week, let alone a month. And even though I feel that we have cut down our meat consumption substantially, I took note of everything we ate while away last week – a holiday filled with delicious salads and veg dishes provided by excellent cooks – and realised that even then, not a day went by without some bit of animal flesh – fish, or ham, or chicken. So actually, the only thing we’ve really cut down on is red meat.
Second, I am hoping it will help us shift a few kilos of the blubber that returned rather insistently over the latter quarter of the year. As I said to Senor, I’ve never known a fat vegetarian, my eyes glazing over and mouth watering with images of all the butter and cheese (and organic ghee kindly delivered to our door by our friend Guy the other day!!) that we will be chowing down on. And then Senor most unhelpfully pointed out that we do know a couple of portly vegos, which sort of ruined my fantasy of the kilos dropping daily with zero effort on our part at all. But I still will be interested to see how it affects weight and general health and feeling of zinginess, to substitute meat with other things.
Third, I am keen to see what kind of a reboot my cooking repertoire receives from this change in routine. When I’m busy I, like most of us I’m sure, tend to fall back on the usual contenders for the evening meal – but this will force me to try new things and extend the range a bit, I hope. As well, one of the things I’ve always believed is that to make interesting, really flavoursome veg food requires more effort than a meat diet does. And now I’m a full-time student (starting a PhD in Creative Writing, eek) I will be financially less well off but have more time and flexibility. If there is ever a time to do this, it’s now – in summer when salads are inspiring, when one doesn’t crave rich, stodgy food as I do in winter, and early in my studies when I can retain the illusion I have plenty of time to do everything.
Finally, there will be the nice fuzzy glow of knowing we’ve spared the lives of a few critters, but I can’t pretend that this is really high on the list of reasons. While in recent years I have thought a lot about my love of meat, and eating it has caused me guilt and unease, I have recently come to a position of moral acceptance that it’s okay to eat animals that have been humanely raised and which have not been made to suffer unnecessarily (hence shopping at Feather and Bone, and proper free range eggs and chooks and all that jazz that you probably all do as well). We’ve cut down a lot on red meat, as I’ve said, and become much firmer in a commitment to real free range pork and chicken (I think conventionally raised lamb and beef, in this country, have better lives than they do in wholly grain-fed operations like those in the US, and have better lives here than our pigs and chickens do, even accounting for beef being finished on grain), but we also try now to only buy red meat from either F&B for that reason. I do welcome any commentary on this, by the way, because I am always keen to hear more about ethical meat production.
All that said, and in noting that we’re only going veg, not vegan, we’re doing this with a few caveats in place.
The first and most important for me is that, while we’re telling all our friends and family about this trial and some have already booked us in for veg meals with them, we won’t be refusing meat at someone’s house if it feels rude to do so. Given that this is an experiment rather than a life choice, I won’t be imposing our vego status on our friends. And to me, conviviality and respect for the person who offers you food is as ethically important as respect for the life of an animal, as the fabulous Tammi Jonas has written about so eloquently here. So there is bound to be the odd evening we eat a bit of meat rather than reject someone’s hospitality, though we’ll try as much as possible to minimise the chances.
Second – and this has no ethical basis whatsoever – I can’t give up anchovies. I just can’t. I love those little salty bombs as much as bacon, which I know I really will miss, for a hit of flavour in everything from chickpea salads to lamb roasts to onion tarts to antipasto. I completely accept the hypocrisy of feeling warm and fuzzy about a cow but not a fish, no matter how small. I hope I have never claimed to be free of hypocrisy (one of my favourite lines on hypocrisy is this, from the philosopher and psychologist Jonathan Haidt: “Stop smirking. One of the most universal pieces of advice from across cultures and eras is that we are all hypocrites, and in our condemnation of others’ hypocrisy we only compound our own.” That came to me via Hal Herzog’s wonderful book Some We Love, Some We Hate, Some We Eat: Why It’s So Hard to Think Straight About Animals).
So now, in honour of our beloved salty little fishy bombs, and in farewell to meat for a month, I offer you this recipe which includes anchovies. It’s a very slight adaptation of a Neil Perry recipe from Good Weekend some time ago, and it is excellent. He used blue eye trevalla but as there was none when I went to our local fish market I bought royal basa and it was good. That said, next time I would try harder to buy a more sustainable fish, given the bloody ethical minefield that seafood shopping entails (god it’s tiring, isn’t it?).
I added chickpeas and zucchini to this to make it a serious one-pan dinner of gorgeousness. I also used dried rather than fresh oregano (just a teaspoon). Highly recommended with or without those additions.
This will be the last fleshy recipe from me until March – but I hope to be posting at least a few updates of how we’re faring throughout vegetableFeb.
Neil Perry’s Roast blue-eye trevalla with fennel & olives
- 1 bulb fennel, finely sliced
- 1 red onion, finely sliced
- 2 tablespoons oregano, chopped
- 2 tablespoons thyme, chopped
- 60 ml olive oil
- 1 red capsicum, finely sliced
- 4 tomatoes, chopped (NP peels and deseeds, but I am too lazy for that and almost never do it)
- 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and drained
- 6 anchovies
- handful of olives
- 1 tsp chilli flakes
- 1 cup white wine
- 4 x blue eye trevalla fillets – we used basa, but any firm white fish fillet would work
- 2 tablespoons chopped parsley (I forgot this but it mattered not)
- Additions: 1 can or equiv cooked chickpeas; 2 small zucchinis, chopped into 3cm lengths
- Preheat oven to 200 degrees C.
- Toss fennel, onion, herbs, capsicum, tomato, capers, anchovies, olives, chilli flakes together in a roasting tin. Pour the wine in and roast for about half an hour, or until the vegetables are soft.
- Add the chickpeas and zucchini and return to oven for 20 minutes or so until zucchinis are just tender.
- Nestle the fish fillets into the mix, drizzle with a little more oil and return to the oven for about 10 minutes or until fish is just cooked.
- Remove tray from oven, leave to rest for about five minutes and then serve a fillet on each plate, topped with the vegetable mix, garnish with parsley and season.
Any of you ever done the vegetarian thing? I’m very interested to hear about it if you have, and if you still are, what kind of foods you missed when you first gave up meat – and if you went back to meat, what tipped your decision…
How to shuck an oyster 
woohoo! go vegie! x.
Ha! Glad you approve, missy. Thinking of returning to both the restaurants we went with you shortly, actually … xx
Charlotte, do you buy the canned chickpeas or do you use the dry and then soak for ……..hours chickpeas?
Remember haloumi is a very yummy protein filler for your vegetarian diet.
Hi Nancy, I use both. More and more these days I soak & cook my own, but the secret for me is coking a huge batch and then freezing them in littlish bags, so they are ready as instantly as cans & no forethought required when you actually want to use them. Same with white beans.
I think canned are completely fine though – only reason I prefer the dried ones really is (apart from less packaging and whatnot) that I like the texture better – they hold their shape a bit better, and are a bit firmer I find when I cook myself.
Great post, Charlotte! I’m looking forward to watching your veg & anchovy adventures. 🙂 My own experience from 8 years of vegetarianism is that the cooking is not any more work, but the creative juices are forced to flow a bit more to season meals that don’t have the automatic flavour bomb of bacon, lamb and other tasty meats. Having said that, there’s nothing quite so tasty as a perfectly roasted tomato with a bit of salt and pepper… Have fun!
So far so good Tammois as you’ll see on the next post (escept for my day one stuffup!). ONly four days in I know but haven’t missed it at ALL so far. And haloumi is my new salty friend – have always loved it but suspect it will be on my plate more often now that yummy salty bacon or pancetta and whatnot is off it.
It’s been just over a month since I reintroduced meat to my diet after about 15 years (I started eating seafood for the first time about 7 years ago). I thought I’d like to lift dietary restrictions on myself, and, yes, I’d been refusing meat prepared for me by others all that time too.
It’s been hard. I don’t really enjoy it except for the odd bit of prosciutto or salami for flavour. I wonder if it’s fussiness or maybe I just don’t like it? For me, giving up meat was much easier than taking it up!
This is really interesting Koosli – so you are eating meat when you don’t want to? Out of politeness, or for health – can you elaborate? I know it’s in almost all food in the public arena, but I would have thought easy enough to avoid most of it? Or am I deluded – a very likely possibility.
Ah-ha, interesting to read Charlotte and good luck with the experiment. I do like these kinds of challenges to re-set the thinking and force you to try out some new ideas. There’s nothing like constraints to get the creative juices going.
Looking forward to reading about your progress.
Thanks Kathryn, I shall be scouring your blog pretty thoroughly this month!
Good luck and I hope you have a fun and flavour-filled month. My partner has turned vegan, which shouldn’t have been an issue for me as I don’t eat meat or dairy, so this summer all home-cooked meals have been vegan. But I’ve found I have to approach food totally differently, much more like how I cooked as a poor student 20 years ago. Though a challenge at times (I’ve discovered that canned tuna is my go-to meal component in a hurry) I’m enjoying it. I’ve also cleared out the pantry and am using up old stores of seaweed (hard to get without added radiation now), yuba, beans, quinoa, millet and all kinds of rice. Am discovering new standby foods, like kimchi (if it’s not homemade you have to look hard for one without fish sauce) and can tell you tempeh and kimchi gyoza are amazing! Enjoy the challenge 🙂
Thanks heaps! I have a new world of stuff to discover, like seaweed andwhatnot. I have always had rather a bad prejudice against tempeh, but have seen some fantastic looking recipes for it lately so shall have to have a stab …
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[…] wafted past him, but I had no desire at all to eat it. As well, despite my earlier decision that anchovies were to stay on the menu, I only ate them once and found it very easy to leave them out of everything after […]